Sunday, June 7, 2015

My Paris Kitchen

Cooking from David Lebovitz’s  delightful cookbook, My Paris Kitchen, was only one of the joys;  it was well-written and the stories of his Parisian culinary adventures were nostalgic for several of our members who lived in Paris.  Lebovitz recalled experiences and adventures in the kitchen that we’ve all had, albeit, not always in Paris!

We opted for a brunch this time for our Parisian meal because of the drive to Brentwood.  It was actually closer that we had anticipated and for most of us a 1 hour, 15 minute drive.   Brentwood is home to many farms, most notably corn.  Brentwood corn is one of the best, often available in grocery stores as well as Farmer’s Markets.   It is easy to see why because of the sun and high heat that this part of our state enjoys.

We entered Sandi & Willie’s home on the notes of a beautiful grand piano, created by a re-engineered, computerized piano that will play music as if performed by a specific artist…all controlled by their computer!  Listen to Gershwin playing Gershwin.  How cool is that!

We started with two appetizers that David S. prepared that he said was extremely simple to make (I’m going to test that theory!).   The first was a Sardine Paté that was created using canned sardines, cream cheese, butter and some heat (maybe cayenne?).  Annie thought the canned sardines brought a more intense flavor that fresh sardines would but David’s going to try it with fresh sardines, which is what Lebovitz recommends.   I’m glad he prepared it for us because it was one of the recipes I had flagged to try.  It was delicious and not at all “fishy” like one would have thought.   The cream cheese softened the flavors.   

His second appetizer was a Green Olive, Basil and Almond Tapenade.  I would not have chosen to try this recipe thinking that green olives are so salty but after tasting it, this dish is one that I will have to try. Gebruder Simon 2010 Riesling Brut Sekt, Mosel, Germany.   I don’t think we’ve had a German sparkling wine before.  I liked it and thought it brought nice fruit to the two savory appetizers.  It was a bright, light and rich tapenade that had a crunch from the almonds but a lovely combination of tastes from the green olives, basil, capers with a hint of garlic and lemon.  I kept going back to it each time I passed by the bowl.   Bill selected an interesting sparkling wine to go with the two appetizers;


Our next appetizer was plated after we sat down for our Sunday feast.  Sandi W. made the Merguez Meatballs with Sriracha Mayonnaise.   These lamb meatballs used harissa for the heat and, obviously, sriracha for the heat in the mayo.  Sandi mentioned that she ground fresh spices herself for the meatballs and there were a lot of them:  fennel, coriander, cumin, garlic, cinnamon, allspice, and sumac.  She was worried that they had been overcooked but we all thought it was wonderful.  She also served a yogurt sauce with it to cool the heat from the meatballs and mayo.  It was perfectly paired with a wine from our own cookbook club cellar that Bill selected for us to enjoy.  We had a field trip several years ago and visited Quivera who boasts a biodynamic garden and several vineyards.  We had dinner in their wine cellar surrounded by huge barrels, emiting that wonderful aroma of aging wine.  As part of our agreement with the winery, we purchased a case of wine, some of which we had with our dinner there but the rest, has been carefully aging in our cellar.  This afternoon we enjoyed a 2000 Quivera Zinfandel, from the Anderson Valley, Dry Creek Valley area in Sonoma.  The zinfandel was fruity and perfectly balanced after aging for 15 years.  It also stood up to the spiciness of the meatballs and sriracha mayonnaise.  Well done, Bill!

I prepared the next dish that I chose because it seemed so very “French” to me.  The Leeks with Mustard-Bacon Vinaigrette was a very simple recipe that combines steamed and cooled leeks with a vinaigrette that was punctuated with Dijon mustard, bacon and parsley while softened with chopped hardboiled eggs.  The hardest part of this recipe was finding small leeks and getting them to cook to right “doneness.”   I noticed that some of the larger leeks were soft and sweet while the smaller ones were tougher.  I now think that larger leeks might be the better choice.  We all noted that Lebovitz’s recipes were simple, easy and produce results that successful.  This afternoon meal confirmed it!   Simple and delicious…what more can a cook ask for?!   While not many wines work well with vinaigrettes or mustard, I think that Bill’s choice for this dish worked.  The Sutter Home, nv, Gewürtztraminer was recommended by a friend of ours who is a wine judge for several events who told us it won a gold medal.  The fruitiness of the wine actually turned out to be a palate cleanser and did not clash with the mustard or the vinegar.  As a Gewürtraminer, however, it fell short of a gold medal, IMHO; no flaws but lacked depth.   Bill brought a back up wine for this dish and it was a better pairing:  Prinz, 2012, Riesling Troken Praditatswein, from the Rhiengau, Germany.

On to our main course and sides prepared by Annie and George.  Chicken with Mustard is the dish pictured on the cover of Lebovitz's cookbook: chicken thighs sauteed in onions and bacon fat, then treated to a creamy mustard sauce. It's all but irresistible to the carnivores among us.   I had made his Chicken Lady’s Chicken and loved that one but now here’s yet another recipe for me to try.  I love chicken thighs, finding them so much more flavorful than chicken breasts!  Annie prepared them at the house, using those so very French ingredients:  bacon, Dijon mustard, thyme, parsley, white wine and heavy cream.  This was totally divine and the perfectly simple and delicious way to prepare chicken….sigh, so many recipes, so little time!   

George complemented the chicken with Pureed Celery Root and Sugar Pea Pods.  The puree had potatoes in it to give it texture and creaminess and was a silken transportation to that elusively light flavor of celery that gives one pause to think, “What is this?”  Because it is not celery root season (Late Fall), it was difficult to find large tender celery roots so George had to puree them in a food processor and then push it through a sieve to get the creamy consistency.  Well worth the effort, George!  The pea pods added a bright green color to the plate and a sweet foil to the savory chicken.   This was complemented by the addition of a wine from Jeffrey’s vineyards,  2014 Mount Eden Vineyard, Grenache Rosé, Santa Cruz Mountains.  The rosé is a great summer quaffing wine and we recommend it for the months ahead  however, it wasn’t a great a pairing as we had expected so Bill produced yet another bottle from our cellar for us to try.  A 2005 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, Tobias Glen Vineyard, Russian River, Sonoma.   Ahh, a much better choice! 

Because we all had a drive ahead, we did not bring a dessert wine and Bill is of the opinion that no wine goes well with chocolate and there was definitely chocolate in one of our desserts!!  Janice made the Chocolate Dulce de Leche Tart with bittersweet chocolate and canned dulce de leche.  It had a wonderful chocolate crust with the dulce de leche covered with a layer of bittersweet chocolate.  Several people had seconds, it was so yummy!

We all lamented that David K. wasn’t here to join us since he’s the King of Duck Fat!  Sandi W. baked Duck Fat Cookies for us.  The recipe calls for butter as well duck fat and was accented with tiny currants.  This time she used Muscovy duck fat in the recipe. The first time she made it with Peking duck fat and the duck flavor was more pronounced and the cookies flatter and crispier.   I ate two, as did many others!  Shortbread cookie extraordinaire!

And, this ended our brunch in Brentwood!  (I found recipes for most of the dishes online so if you want to replicate this dinner, just click on the recipe titles)

Our next dinner will be on Saturday, September 5th.   Jeffrey has graciously offered his home on top of the Santa Cruz mountains for that dinner.  The good news is that over half of the road up to his home is now paved!!  Jeffrey has yet to select a cookbook for this dinner so when he does, I will let everyone know what feast to cook next!  In the meantime, please mark your calendars to save this date.

Cook on!